It’s said that some places never grow old. We already had proof of this with the century-old brasserie La Taverne du Passage, and the theory is now being proved with Le Cirio. Located in the heart of the historic center of Brussels, a stone’s throw from the Grand-Place, the address has been perpetuating the art of traditional Belgian brasserie for almost 140 years. Designed in 1886 by Charles Gys and decorated in 1909 by Henri Coosemans, it combines marble, bronze, wood and red velvet in an Art Nouveau style punctuated by neo-Renaissance touches.
The story begins with Francesco Cirio, Piedmontese industrialist and creator of the famous brand of canned tomatoes, who imagined a tasting room for Italian specialties, as in several European cities. While all the others have disappeared, the one in Brussels has evolved into a typical Brussels brasserie. It still serves emblematic dishes such as carbonnade à la bière and a local cocktail that intrigues visitors: half en half, a mixture of half sparkling wine and half white wine. A favorite haunt of Jacques Brel, Le Cirio remains a living witness to the city’s past, welcoming the curious and the regulars in a setting that has been preserved right down to its century-old toilets!
Le Cirio: a preserved architectural and culinary heritage
Pushing open the door of Le Cirio is like stepping into a postcard of Brussels in the 1900s. The marble and wood storefront, highlighted by bronze arcade columns, catches the light as it did in days gone by. Inside, everything exudes the elegance of a bygone era! Red velvet banquettes, original counters, curved mirrors, floral wallpapers, wainscoting, gilded columns and wrought-iron chandeliers with colored skylights… Nothing has been over-modernized, not even the men’s washrooms with their monumental porcelain urinals. This respect for authenticity attracts heritage lovers and tourists in search of real Brussels clichés.
On the plate, traditional Belgian cuisine remains at the forefront. Dishes simmered in beer, croquettes and, of course, the carbonnade flammande, remind us that the estaminet is as much a pleasure for the eyes as a temple of taste. The menu reflects the simple, generous savoir-faire inherited from the brewery’s beginnings and the convivial spirit intended by Francesco Cirio.
Half en Half, the emblematic Brussels drink to be enjoyed in this brasserie
It’s impossible to leave Le Cirio without tasting the Half en Half. This typically Brussels blend, perfected (according to legend) right here in 1939, combines half sparkling wine and half white wine for €4.50. There are two stories behind this recipe. The first is that unlucky stockbrokers living near the old stock exchange used to swap inaccessible champagne for this more affordable cocktail. The second, more plausible, involves combining a sparkling wine that’s too sweet with a white wine that’s too acidic to create the perfect balance. Whatever the case, the tradition lives on and will appeal to connoisseurs and the curious alike. A must-try address in Brussels for a real trip back in time.
📍Rue de la Bourse, 18 – 1000 Brussels