Every summer, the Zwin plain in Knokke-Heist is covered with a vast purple carpet. It might look like lavender, but it isn’t. Sea lavender is not related to the variety found in Provence. It grows with its roots in saltwater, on Belgium’s largest salt marsh, and its blooming season ends at the end of the month. In other words, less than two hours from Brussels, you have just a few days left to see it.
A flower that expels salt to survive
Its real name is Limonium vulgare, and it belongs to the Plumbaginaceae family . (True lavender, on the other hand, is a Lamiaceae.) So, despite the nickname, they’re completely different. What makes it remarkable is its survival strategy. In fact, it’s a halophyte—a plant capable of growing in salty soil because it excretes the salt it absorbs. Where almost no other vegetation can survive, it thrives. The result is a vibrant purple that stands out against the usual blue-grays of the salt marsh flora. A little tidbit for the curious… It gives off a woody scent and, unlike other marsh plants, it is not edible.
The only place in Belgium where this phenomenon occurs on such a large scale
Locals call it the “Zwinneblomme,” the flower of the Zwin— and the name is well-deserved. It’s the only nature reserve in Belgium where it blooms in such abundance. Better yet: since the park’s expansion in 2019— which added 120 hectares after a breach was cut in the dike—it’s gaining ground every year. The Zwin is home to more than forty species of salt-tolerant plants, spread across 333 hectares straddling the Belgian-Dutch border. Here’s a telling anecdote : sheep are kept away from the plain in the spring and summer, precisely because they love it so much.
How to see it before it wilts
The park is located at Graaf Léon Lippensdreef 8 in Knokke-Heist, about an hour and a half by car or train from Brussels. About 60 hectares are open to the public, and guides are on hand during the summer to explain the phenomenon. The park also offers a 5-kilometer “Sea Lavender” guided walk, which takes about 2.5 hours, with park admission and exhibits included. Two tips if you go! First, waterproof shoes are highly recommended —you’ll be walking through a marsh… And the trail is not accessible to people with limited mobility. Finally, dogs are not allowed in the park.
